Hab schon was gefunden mit Bildern vom E36 M3, gleicher Kompressor
step 1 remove the 10mm bolt
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00654-1.jpg
Then you pull the clutch end off.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00655-1.jpg
That's a crappy pic of the end of the clutch and the 10mm nut + washer
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00656-1.jpg
Look with a mirror you will see a snap ring.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00658-1.jpg
With snap ring pliers you can remove it but this takes patience
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00659-1.jpg
Now it's removed you can see the bearing.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DSC00660-1.jpg
With a socket you can drive the old bearing out.
The little lip ring will become loose. Do not lose it and take note of how it goes in.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...y/DSC00684.jpg
then you can insert the new one using the old one to drive it in.
Dont forget to isert the lip ring first and in the correct way
As you are driving the bering in, get the pulley on a surface that allows the lip ring to stick out as you tap it in all the way. If you do it on a flat surface, you will damage the lip ring.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...y/DSC00686.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...y/DSC00688.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...y/DSC00687.jpg
BTW the OEM bearing is a NACHI Part Number 30BGS10DST2 (also says 190 on it)
The replacement C&S bearing says 30BG05S2G-2DS
reinstalled the clutch as it was and the pulley would not spin freely as it should. Basicaly the clutch was engaged at all times. I suspect there is a small difference in the width of the bearing when compare to the original. But I found an easy fix. Use the washer you see in the 3rd pictures and insert it INSIDE the splined shaft of the end of the clutch. It will make the piece come out just enough to give you the clearance you need for the pulley to spind freely. (sorry no pics)
The clutch bearing spins when the AC is off, engine running (clutch disengaged). When the clutch engages, the pulley & compressor shaft turn as one. If your noise is only with AC running, suspect the compressor is damaged.
A/C clutch bearing DIY
Again, make sure it's the bearing.
Quick DIY for six-cylinders:
Jack the front of the car up, remove the splash panel.
Remove the A/C belt by releasing the tension on the A/C tensioner.
At this point, if you rotate the A/C pulley, it will or will not feel smooth; same for the tensioner pulley.
If it's the A/C, the A/C compressor is held to its mount by removing its four bolts. This will give it enough play to move about an inch in any direction.
The pulley is held on by a 10mm head bolt, remove the cover, then an external snap ring about 1 1/4" - this is the hard part, getting the snap ring pliers at the right angle to release that circlip.
Once the circlip is removed, the pulley (with bearing) will come off the shaft. Watch out for two shims between the pulley and the shaft to space it away from the clutch slightly.
The old bearing can be pressed or pounded out with a 36mm (I think) socket, the new one pressed in with a vice or press the same way - make sure the new one is completely seated.
Re-assemble in reverse order.
I got my bearing from ESI (bearingsdirect.com), P/N 30BG05S2G-2DS - the bearing is a double row radial, 30mm ID, 52mm OD, 22mm wide.
grosses Bild
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bea...duct_info.html